This is simply an awesome bit of kit. It's expensive but it works perfectly and completely changes the characteristics of the car for the better.
I brought the kit via a group buy and decided to fit it myself. For several reasons:
I took it easy the first few attempts as I wasn't quite sure what to expect. Booting the car in a stright line in 2nd was amazing, no drama just whoosh off she went, you could hardly feel the missfire. Then for a bit of 1st gear accelleration, this was equally impressive, you could repeatedly feel the wheels start to slip and the traction control take over and back off a bit. Then a horrible missfire, I thought something was wrong but then looked at the rev counter and realized I was hitting the rev limiter. This is the first time that's ever happened in 1st gear. Usually when I get to about 4-5k revs the wheels break traction and I need to change into 2nd. Not so now, I can make full use of the power. Next I tried something that I would not dream about without the traction control, pulling out to the right to overtake something in 2nd gear whilst planting my foot on the throttle. Without traction control the wheels would spin and you'd head off towards the right verge. However with the traction control I just wizzed past the car. Now I'd gained more confidence in the system I decided to floor it around a large roundabout, again in 2nd gear in damp conditions, wow, she just pulled around the roundabout, you could feel the system working but she kept her line and kept accelerating.
I tried the lauch control once. The artificial rev limit is set to about 3750rpm out of the factory and planting by foot on the throttle caused the boost to raise to about 0.5bar. I haven't tried actually pulling away yet as I don't want to cook the clutch just yet!!
Overall I love the system, the car is so more drivable now, in any road conditions you can just plant your foot and off you go, no drama, no wheel spins, no corrective steering. You can actually make the most of the cars power. In a word "Wow".
Now for the worse part of the installation, connecting to the ABS sensors. The only way to do this is to solder directly onto the wires inside the ABS plug. Locate the plug on the left hand side of the ABS unit. Yes it's located underneath the strut brace and brake fluid reservoir! To remove the plug pull the release handle located at the front of the plug. This should pull out towards the front of the car about 1/2 way out by which point it should be possible to pull the plug upwards. The length of the wiring to the plug is very short and that's what makes the job very tricky. Remove the plastic cover to the plug by releasing the two clips at either side at the back. The cover now lifts off towards the front on the plug. The four pairs of sensor wires go to pins 1&2, 3&4, 6&7 and 8&9. Pin 5 is a blank. The pins are on the right hand side of the plug at the back. Pins 1, 3, 6 and 8 are brown and should NOT be connected. The other pins 2, 4, 7 and 9 carry the signals and need to be connected to the ABS wire from the traction control ECU. Pin 2 is red, pin 4 is green (front NS sensor), pin 7 is white (front OS sensor) and pin 9 is yellow. It does not matter which colour is connected to which colour of the lead going to the traction control ECU as during the calibration stage the traction control ECU determines which are the driven and which are the reference wheels. As per the manual strip back a bit of the wire shielding on the ABS wires and solder on the wires to the traction control ECU. This is very tricky due to the access you have and the tightness of the wires connected to the pins. Cover the exposed wires with insulation tape. Use a couple of plastic wire straps to secure the wire going to the traction control ECU against the main bulk of wires leaving the ABS plug. Refit the plastic cover to the ABS plug. To refit the ABS plug push the release lever back into it until the first click then lower onto the socket and push home the release lever.
As you can see in the picture below for neatness I connected the red to red, green to green, yellow to yellow and white to blue.
Wire up the switched 12V supply and earth leads of the traction control loom. I extended the 12V supply one so I could wire it in the same place as several other switched supplies down by the cigarette lighter.
Moving to the Fiat ECU remove the plastic cover using a 10mm socket then remove the ECU again using a 10mm socket. Disconnect the large plug from the end by pulling the metal lever back. Remove the insulation tape from around the bundle of wires leaving the ECU. Now we need to locate the 5 injector wires such that the traction control system can break the signal when it needs to reduce the engine power:
| Injector | ECU Pin | Wire Colour |
| 1 | 17 | Red |
| 2 | 16 | Grey |
| 3 | 15 | Pink with White stripe |
| 4 | 35 | Light Blue with Yellow stripe |
| 5 | 34 | Grey with Green stripe |
The easiest thing to do is locate the red wire, I think there are only two of them. Stick a pin/needle in the wire and check using a continuity tester that it corresponds to the correct pin number on the plug. Use the pin numbering on the socket attached to the ECU to determine the pin layout. Holding the plug such that the thicker end is at the bottom, pins 34 and 35 are on the middle row, 4th and 3rd in from the right hand side. Pins 15, 16 and 17 are on the bottom row 5th, 4th and 3rd in from the right hand side. Once you have located the correct red wire locating the other 4 is easy as they are bunched together.
Cut these five wires. The best approach is to use the two pairs of male/female block connectors that racelogic supply in the kit. Use a pair for the wires you've just cut and a pair for the wires attached to the traction control loom and you will be able to connect and disconnect the system at will. It is also easier if you want to transer the system to another car.
Now I had a nightmare with the pins for these connectors. I just couldn't work out how you were supposed to attach them to a wire. The manual says simply crimp them on but I'm not sure if a special crimping tool is required. I tried folding over one leg then the other on top but it ended up being too wide to fit into the hole in the connector. I gave up and cut off the legs and soldered the wire carefully to the end of the pin. The connectors can handle 8 wires but we only need to use 5. I therefore placed used the locations as far apart as possible. One in each corner and one in the middle. You'll see what I mean when you look at the connector.
Next is the rev counter signal. This is the blue wire connected to the Pin 6 of the Fiat ECU. Locate this wire using the same technique as the injector wires. I cut the wire going to the ECU and added an extra branch off it with a female bullet connector on the end. I attached a male bullet connector to the end of the black/white wire on the traction control loom.
Connect the remaining male/female pair of plugs and sockets to the traction control loom ensuring that the colours of the wires from the traction control go to the correct injector. Also ensure that the solid colour wires are connected to the Fiat ECU end of the wire and the coloured wires with the black stripe go to the engine side of the wires:
| Injector Colour | Traction Control Colour |
| Red | Red |
| Grey | Orange |
| Pink with White stripe | Grey |
| Light Blue with Yellow stripe | Green |
| Grey with Green stripe | Yellow |
Note that the Pink and pink with Black stripe wire is not needed as this is for a 6 cylinder engine! The system should be ready for testing now.
I wanted a custom look to the installation so I dismantled the race logic traction control box. This comprises of a dial to select the amount of wheel slip, a warning LED to indicate when the system is disabled and a green button to activate the launch control. To disassemble the box undo the 4 small philips head screws from the back on the box. Cut the white plastic wire tie securing the cable. Remove the black knob that controls the wheel slip by loosening the countersunk allen screw and the pulling the knob off. Undo the retaining nut using a 13mm spanner. Use a 14mm spanner to undor the retaining nut for the launch control button. Pull the button through the front of the box and unsolder the two grey wires connecting it to the base of the dial. Unscrew the black collar on the underside of the LED, push the LED down into the box and pull the thin platic housing upwards.
Use the empty box to make a template for the locations of the holes. Remember to invert the image. You will need to drill a 13mm hole for the lauch control button, a 10mm hole for the dial and a 6mm hole for the LED. I decided the best place to fit the control box contents was next to the gear stick on the opposite side to the sunroof switch.
I stuck the template on the plastic ensuring that there was enough room for the ash tray cover to open and for a possible future gear stick surround. I rotated the controls though 90 degrees:
And no I didn't even think to line it up exactly with the switch on the opposite side. I only noticed when writing this article and looked at the top down view. In day to day use the difference in position is unnoticable.